31 December 2010

30 Dec 10 Niagra Falls to New York City

Temp: -1 Degrees C Clear skies.

We allowed an hour to drive to Buffalo airport. Plenty of time for a 1255 flight. Previous days news reports indicated border queues around an hour wait so not knowing what it would be like we left Niagra Falls early. Rainbow bridge is only two minutes from the Sheraton hotel so it wasn't long before we were crossing the river to the border gate. Three or four minutes questions at the border and a show of ID later we were back on our journey. The GPS directed us to the Buffalo airport with ease. The only real trial was trying to find a service station. None of the brands were familiar and the first option the GPS took us to didn't have fuel. Anyway a short drive later we refuelled. Only about $40 USD fuel used between Montreal and Buffalo.
We dropped the car off at the airport and checked into Delta. I have to say after all the travel thus far this was the most trialling episode at an airport. The automatic checkin systems are bad. Many don't work, are very very slow and often recommend you find a staff member to complete the transaction. In the end you have checkin staff (required for checkin baggage anyway) plus staff helping out with the machines. Cannot see how this is cost saving, and is certainly stressful and time consuming for the traveller. Lines back up very quickly. In addition to all this the travellers inconvenienced from the airport closures were really under stress, and trying to catch sleep and/or flights where ever they could. Checkin costs per bag. First one $25 USD, second $35 USD. Should have taken the cheaper airline after all.
Security was the usual nightmare, and then the inevitable flight delay.
By 1400 (15 minute wait on tarmac) we were on board the CRJ50 in seats 1A,B,C and D careering down the icy runway heading towards New York City. Seating doesn't matter in a no frills airline though. One good thing though; any over sized bags, or those unable to fit in the overhead lockers are tagged and put in the hold free of charge. You pick those bags back up from the tarmac as you egress.
The flight was 55 minutes in the air, and after a brief pause waiting to get to gate we managed to push through the JFK crowds to the baggage claim. For once our bags were on the carousel early and in short order we were in line for a New York taxi. Most of the taxis have gone Hybrid which is a good environmental strategy for large cities. After the first six or seven taxis set off the taxi coordinator informed the line that the taxi pool was at 0%. They divide the taxis evenly between the terminals and there is no way of finding out when the next are due. As it was there was no real problem as more taxis arrived pretty quickly with another 75 turning up to the pool. There are shuttle buses available but you really need to know where you need to go, and where they are heading. Descriptions of Midtown, Downtown and Upper West side are pretty large geographic areas. It was about an hours trip and $45 USD flat rate to the Westin Hotel in New York City. We witnessed first hand the New York traffic peak hour, further hampered by the New Years plans. Observed an ambulance, sirens blaring, trying to get through the traffic. Most cars do not get out the way, and those that do are squeezing in tight spots, up on curbs or end up causing more problems creating oblique angles to the traffic. You would not want to need an ambulance in New York peak hour. The corner of 43rd and 8th avenue Times Square was our destination. Only a short stroll to the square from the hotel, and a walk around the block which we did in the afternoon to get our bearings. Many of the sites and things to do in Broadway are very close. Prices are high for shows though, costing $800 USD for the family.
We returned to the hotel to check on tours, things to do, restaurants and what was happening with New Years. The hotel issued a New Years card to get through the road closures for hotel guests.
We booked a tour for the following day and headed back into Times Square to find some dinner. No restaurants were taking reservations, most had a forty five minute to hour and a half wait. We found an Italian place and decided on takeaway. About half an hour later we returned to the hotel room where I enjoyed my first New York Pizza slice. Interesting pizza choices here in New York. Most pizzas are simply pepperoni or cheese. Occasionally you can find a place offering additional toppings such as mushroom or green peppers. One place charged $2.50 USD per additional topping. Not sure if that was per slice or full pizza but it was listed under the per slice column . The pizzas are pretty big, and the individual slices huge. Cool! It was funny listening to a number of customers asking for Hawaiian pizzas only to be told - nup.
With a day to go before New Years festivities there was a hum of activity in the area. Workers were clearing the streets of the ice and snow of the recent storms with excavators. The police were already starting to work with road closures starting at 1300 on the 31st Dec. Concrete blocks and metal barrackades lined the streets in preparation.

29 Dec 10 - Toronto to Niagra Falls

Temp: Warm -3 degrees overcast.

Heading off to Niagra falls in the morning we took a slight detour to visit the CN Tower. A Toronto landmark. First thoughts were to go to the top of the tower but as it came into view the observation decks only just sat under the blanket of cloud. Toronto boasts a population around 2.5 million. Took some photographs and decided to continue towards Hamilton. It was about 60 minutes to Dundas, the town I spent some time in a good few years back. The GPS took us in through the back way, but straight onto Melville St where the primary school sits, and of course our old home. While photographing 154 Melville a neighbour from across the road stopped for a chat. He actually owns the place now and was interested in knowing I lived there 32 years ago. He offered some suggestions for the rest of our trip.  The place is definately different from what I remember. It was much larger back then, and I was sure the driveway was wider.  :-)
St James church across the road was well restored with significant rennovations done. This church was destroyed by fire just before we arrived in 1978. Further on down the road the school has suffered few changes. As Clare mentioned later the school is actually one of the first built in early Canada (That is after the creation of the Canadian Nation). Changes to the school outside did include grass, a perimeter fence and a shed on the right of the building. We drove around the neighbourhood for a short time.
Once leaving Dundas we headed to Ancaster to meet up with the Stewarts for lunch. Although really a suburb Ancaster is complete with country roads through wooded areas and abound with isolated stone buildings before coming to developed built up residential and commercial areas. In many regards reminiscent to Bridgewater in the Adelaide hills. The snow brought us back to reality.
Lunch at the Stewarts was fantastic and it was great to see Clare again and meet her son Brett.
After lunch we were on our way to Niagra. Clare offered to lead us back to the 403, QEW or Link which would eventually take us to Niagra. I hoped for road signs and decided to continue to follow Clare ignoring the GPS. Eventually ended back onto the QEW with signs directing us to Niagra Falls. Not a big problem and certainly no longer travelling. It was only about an hour to the falls and we made the Sheraton hotel in good time. The hotel was busy and by the way the staff were running about and chasing down cars we took the valet option. While waiting for reception we were given a complimentary warm cider.
Our hotel room faced the falls with a spectacular view.
As light was fading we went for a walk along the falls, taking photos as well. We couldn't find the 'Behind the falls' tour information so we returned to the hotel for dinner. Dinner was had at the hotel in one of the restaurants there. It was busy but they managed to squeeze us into the buffet pretty quickly.
After dinner Kylie and the girls strolled into the heart of the Niagra fun district. Think Las Vegas.
I went back to the falls for some night photos. The sound and spray from the falls assail the senses. It isn't that cold but the spray turns the snow to ice and makes the pavement slippery to walk on. There is a huge light show along the roadway ranging from decorated trees to a variety of light displays.
In one of the trees there a raccoon hid from the lights and sounds of the kids running about the parklands. 

28 Dec 10 - Mont Tremblant to Toronto

Temp -3 degrees celcius. Clear skies becoming overcast
Temperatures warming slightly as we decend south.
Had to get up early and pack this morning. We booked the 0900 bus to Montreal so we had plenty of time to pick up the hire car and drive the 6 or so hours to 'Toronno'. The bus arrived for pick up about 15 to 20 minutes late. As it was we made good time to the airport. The journey was uneventful apart from spotting a couple of deer grazing on the fairway periphery of a snow covered golf course. We picked up the car in good time. They didn't have the sedan we were expecting and offered a pickup. In the end we were given a silver Hyundai Senata. Actually a very nice car with huge boot space. Everything is electric and automatic including the doors locking while in gear, and unlocking when in park. Getting the lights on was interesting. Everyone was driving with the lights on but as the dash lights are turned down this made it difficult to read the electronic instruments. I also suspect the speedo under read. I stuck to the speed limit only to find people whizzing past as though I was standing still. The speeding fines, that signs regularly reminded you of, indicated 20km over was a $95 CAD fine ranging to 40 km over at $295 CAD.  Occasionally it was pointed out that 50 km over was loss of license, $10,000 CAD fine plus car impounded.
I wasn't given winter tyres (tires here) which concerned me a little. Apparently it is illegal to allow a Canadian rental car into the USA on winter tyres for a drop off. Off the East coast there had been severe Atlantic storms and wet weather (rain and flooding) while down around Buffalo and New York severe snow falls and blizzards closed off the airports and created huge road hazards. Initially I was more concerned with the drive from Montreal to Toronto as just before Christmas roads were closed, people caught in vehicles for up to four days, with reported deaths and extraction of stranded travellers by helicopter.  All this at one point only 100 Kms from where we were driving. In the end my mind was closer to Buffalo and the hope the roads clear and airports would be open by the time we were due to fly out, and better still the backlog of stranded flyers were cleared. All told the drive to Toronto was a breeze. Roads were very dry with outside temperatures up around -1 degrees C for the duration. A brief stop at Kingston to view Fort Henry brought back some memories. The wind was chilly and as the sky was becoming overcast and the light fading (it was only 1500hrs) we didn't hang about. Very slight snow fall as well. $5 CAD to visit the fort and probably better to visit during warmer months as more happens then.
We continued on with the GPS directing us brilliantly into Toronto along the 401. We found the Delta Chelsea and stayed in room 1163. We had dinner in one of the five restaurants in the hotel having a true French Onion soup for entree. After dinner Kylie and I ventured into 'Toronno' to look at some of the shops.
After the short walk it was time to retire.

27 Dec 10 - Mont Tremblant - Last full day

Temp -5 degrees C Clear skies

Weather warming up still. We all took a morning walk down to Lac Miroir. This is just below the lower village and where deer tracks can be seen in the snow lying on the lake ice. A stream feeds the lake with water tumbling over boulders and burbling under sheets of ice. Tried to take photos of Lac Tremblabt but the foliage free trees block the view for anything decent.
Lunch was back at the Pizzeria after which we walked down to the lower village. We were supposed to check out the swimming pool along the way but enthusiasm for the skating rink took over. We picked up our skates at the resource centre after trying on some examples for size. Strolling across the road we donned the skates by the fire at the rink. The battery was flat on the HD video camera so Kylie whipped back up to the room to charge the device just enough for some video of Hailey on the rink. Unlike an indoor skating rink this area weaved around trees with a couple of short slopes to contend with and the rough icy surface of a manufactured outdoor rink. The usual experienced locals made us look pretty amateurish. Worst still Australians can't even claim we can play cricket! Walking across snow in skates is interesting to try too. We were briefly joined by Toufou the resort mascot for a skate and photo, high five or whatever...
Skating enthusiasm was short lived but I managed a few photos of the chapel while down there.
At about 1500 we returned the skates and headed back to the room. Kylie and I decided to brave the outdoor spa. Actually not too bad, and popular. You get changed in the locker rooms and head on into the indoor pool area. A sauna is just outside the locker room and further on is the exercise gym. Just off this, through glass doors, a number of different pools, varying shapes and depths form the main attraction. A bridge spans the larger pools while paved stone paths weave around the others. Crossing over these we deposited our towels on two of the many deck chairs surrounding the water park. Through glass doors it is a short skip to the outside spa, basking under the icy skies. Met an elderly guy from Montreal who initially thought we were Austrian. After correcting him we learnt a good deal about traditional Canadian foods and cooking methods. It would have been nice to sample some of these. Leaving the spa involved a quick dash into the humid and warm main pool area. By the time we returned to the locker and change rooms the icicles in the hair had thawed completely.
Dinner was at 1815 hrs so near this time we strolled to the Savoir restaurant. Opening the doors one is assailed by the delicate smells of cheese. Ok, perhaps a little understated but perfect in encouraging the palate for a Raclette. A complimentary liquer and unlimited green salad started the meal. The usual canadian/american offers of breads in abundance appeared. Kylie and I shared the raclette while the girls cooked their own meat and fish on a hot marble slab. We all shared and even Sara enjoyed the melting cheese on the vegetables and meat in the raclette style. The table next door enjoyed a couple of the cheesy fondues on offer, and if I wasn't cheesed out after demolishing the raclette that would have been a n awesome addition to the dinner. Needless to say there was no room for cheesecake for desert.

26 Dec 10 - Mont Tremblant

Temp: - 12 degrees C, clear skies

Today was a lazy day. Only thing planned was some ice skating down by the chapel and wandering about the stores, riding in the sky lifts and anything else on offer. Hey! At least I don't have to fight Captain Hook. A simple handle, given a twist, and warm water. Thank goodness for the French Canadien ingenuity. We took the sky lift down to the bottom end blinded by the warm sun and white brilliance. The ice rink was open, but unfortunately the skate hire place was shut for today. Tomorrow it is. The girls decided they wanted to go skiing again so we headed on up to fit them out with gear.
Spent the morning wandering about the village taking photographs. A few stores are closed today, including the wine shop, but luckily I did manage to stock up a few days earlier. Met the girls for lunch at The Forge restaurant. Upstairs we sat near a window overlooking the square. The sun is warm through the windows and the signs of snow melt are well under way. More gravel has been strewn about the paths and the icy mush is giving way to expose some slippery ice on the paths and roadways. The cobble stone roads are gradually opening up to the air and drying off quickly under the warmer sun. A wind picking up is delivering clouds of silver specks from the rooftops and trees. Icicles, and blocks from the rooves and eaves drop occasionally. And if not dropping themselves certainly dripping water as you pass underneath.
At about 1400 hrs the girls had enough skiing and returned the gear. Once that was done we watched some of the entertainment in the village square before visiting some more stores. I purchased sunglasses to replace those broken a few days earlier. The girls looked for 'Le Photo' store where one of the photographers captured Hailey on the slopes. There were some nice photos but none of Sara. Sitting on the counter was a Contour HD helmet camera. I almost bought one of these in Australia before coming overseas as it it allows hands free videoing and is particularly useful for unusual camera angles. One the photographers took me through some of the video he had taken. Coupled with the good aussie dollar, removing postage fees and a good discount I purchased a camera to try out on the tubing that night. The photographer – Daniel lent me ski googles to attach the camera to. It worked well capturing some good video while tubing. Only problem was the camera not quite low enough, but hey it worked and lessons learnt for next time.
Dinner was at Casey's bar and grill. Great steaks and ribs with wide screen tv showing recent sports in every direction looked at. After dinner time for tubing. Snow tubing was fun. With a choice of single or dual tubes and two slopes to choose from. They are only short runs and the ride is over far too quickly. We arrived around 1900 hrs with lines only 10 or so people long. By the time we left an hour or so later the lines were 30-40 people long. Thankfully the lines move reasonably quickly. Young people can take the GTs which are tri ski devices kids kneel on and go down a snaking slope. Tube options include the single or double with most people opting for the double tubes. You can get a good spin on these but they go down the slope slower. If you opt for the single tubes they are faster but don't spin as easily. Not as many want to go single so this line moves quicker.
Lit the log fire in the hotel room and after taking some photos of the village at night settled in for a quiet night over some wine.

26 December 2010

25 Dec 10 - Christmas day, Mont Tremblant

Temp: Max -9, min -14 overcast
Merry Christmas all. A day later than in Oz I must add.
Had to get up a bit earlier this morning to make the dog sled ride. Stephan picked us up outside the Adventure Centre at 0850. A couple from florida joined us. Stephan mentioned he had been to Australia and was going back down there to Adelaide in 2012 to dive with Rodney Fox. I suggested he look us up when he gets down there.
Dog sledding was greater fun the second time round. This time we were introduced to the dogs and led them to the sleds. Once on our way the diffferences in these sleds to last time were immediately apparent. These were racing sleds and so the slightest shift in weight turned the sled. Also the brake was a different design. More like a moulded rubber mat. The track took us through a golf course, over a lake and through pines. the curves and undulations really meant the driver had to work. Shifting weight, braking and running alongside the sled. The passengers had it easy and a couple of people came off their sleds. Half way was the provided Chocolate Chaud and cookies and an opportunity to bask in the sun under the shadow of the mountain.
Professional photographers managed to get us some memorable photos of the event while Sara captured some of the ride by video.
We returned to Mont Tremblant at 1200 hrs and had lunch at the Pizzeria again. Magnifique! Then we hit the slopes, shredding the beginners run. This time we took on the higher starts which was fun. The magic carpet was icy today so by the end of the afternoon everyone had to take the ride hanging onto their skis and snowboards. There is plenty more to do here over the next few days so we returned our ski gear.
Had a brief rest in the hotel room and watched Shrek 2. Dinner was had at Chasey's bar and grill. We bumped into the two from Florida at the bar. This time we all enjoyed some BBQ chicken wings and a New York Steak.
The girls went and did some tubing after dinner. The queues were long and they went for a few rides but there is always tomorrow night...
   

24 Dec 10 - Christmas eve Mont Tremblant

Temp: -6 degrees C

Slight sleep in this morning. No frying pan so making scrambled eggs in a jug in the microwave did the trick. Headed on up to the ski slopes a bit earlier than needed. Not happy, discovered camera battery charger not working. Hopefully spare battery will last until Toronto where I hope to find a replacement. After waiting at the 'Snow School' sign for quite a while, by the alloted hour with no-one turning up we were concerned. Headed towards the Ski hire place and found a group of instructors assembling their proteges. We managed to secure Peter as our unfortunate tutor. Two others joined us; Summer and Jenny, for a group of six. At the collection point Peter took us through the basics. Walking up hills, sideways and V climbing. We also slid on one ski, then two before finally skiing down and thewn up to the beginners slope. Probably not so much skiing but sliding and eventually walking with the skis under arm. Went up the magic carpet to the top level. The bottom slope was held by the snow boarders while we took the upper slope. I have to admit I took to the skiing pretty quickly. It might have been a while but all that time cross country skiing 30+ years ago must have helped out. Peter took me through some turning moves and parallel turns. After a number of turns shredding the beginners slope it was time for lunch. The Pizzeria downstairs serves a mean pizza so thats what we had.
Getting back up to the slopes it was decided to tackle the mountain. There was a very easy slope - apparently. Up the ski lift we went.  It is actually pretty high up, and there was a brief nervous pause at one point. Anyway we get off and head left to the easiest slope - La Passe. The first part was a little icy and quite quick. A bit quicker than first timers should attempt. At one point the slope is far too steep (Nansen Haut) so we walked down on an instructors advice. After that the slope levels out a bit more (Nansen Bas) and the final run is pretty easy. This run takes us around some tight corners, across a bridge and through a small tunnel before ending up at the beginners slope. All told, that was the end of skiing for the day and the general concensus was tomorrow to return to the beginners slope.
Father Christmas is about to arrive so we head on down to the bottom end of the village. By sky lift this time. You stand in a pod that literally shoots down to the bottom, skimming the top of the Marriott hotel along the way.
The crowd at the bottom were waiting earnestly for Santa Claus' arrival. His little helpers and Mrs Claus turned up in golf buggies, followed closely by horses. Father Christmas was missing. Looking up at the Mont Tremblant Bell tower there he was getting attached to belay equipment. I have to say it was the funniest decent I have ever seen, Not exactly the most poetic entrance, but at least a safe decent - eventually. A good laugh had by all.
This done it was time to head off to the 1700 hr sleigh ride. A short stroll of 3 km through road slush, iced walkways and compressed snow eventually took us to the sleigh ride start. Two horses pulled us and 10 or so others past a lake, through pine forests and over undulating mounds of snow in the increasing dark. Entertained on the Mont Tremblant legend, music and singing we stopped at the half way point  for a welcomed Chocolate Chaud (Hot Chocolate). If we don't look after the air, water and forest the mountain will become a trembling mountain. Although in snow gear and well rugged up it was becoming cold. Upon returning we began the slow trek home. Thankfully a taxi looking for a ride turned up. Not an english speaker we did manage to eventually direct him to our destination. As it was the taxi ride was just cheaper than the bus if we chose to wait for that - if that was running at this time. 
After a short tour of the Place St Bernard restaurants we decided dinner was to be at the Fat Mardis. Nice dinner of Pistachio encrusted chicken for me with blackened chicken, ribs and steak for others. Previous tennants left some logs in the fire place so I tried the get the fire started. Hardwood and no kindling so not so successful. Need some petrol.
After laughing at American TV ads (especially the one describing all the bad after effects found in trials of a certain medication they were trying to sell - initially we thought it was a joke...) it was time for retirement.

23 Dec 10 - Montreal to Mont Tremblant

Temp: Montreal -1 Degrees C, Mont Tremblant -1 degrees C

The warm weather continues. Slight opportunity for a sleep in this morning. Pack up, check out and squeezed the luggage into a camry. Just. get to International airport well ahead of time. Bus driver turns up about 1145. After a chat he asks if I would drive the bus for him to Mont Tremblant. I was happy to but did remind him which side of the road I drove on. The journey, supposed to be 2 hours, was relatively quick with low traffic heading in our direction. We arrived at the resort just after 1400 hrs. A very short stroll to reception would have been next if it wasn't for toting our huge, and now getting heavy, bags. Once that was over it was another short stroll up stairs through a Get Smart security system to a lift, the slowest ever, to our 3rd floor room. Le Johannsen Sud, room 363 at le place St Bernard. After briefly settling into the room (king sized bed, log fire, full kitchen, ensuite, balcony overlooking snow - snow we can actually walk out to) we headed into the village for a tour. First stop was to the Adventure Centre where we booked our sleigh ride for Christmas eve and our second lot of dog sledding for Christmas day. Then it was off to the ski hire place for boot fitting, skis and poles, and booking ski lesson for tomorrow. Once equipment was all sorted we had lunch at Le Shack. Great food of burgers, chicken and nachos under flying ducks, owl, indoor maple trees and pines. They weren't real but for decor it was all well done. Le shack is a very popular place.
Continuing our stroll through the village we visited an enormous amount of stores of all descriptions. Apart from a huge variety of ski gear stores and restaurants of all food tastes, there are the usual souvenir shops, specialty stores, booze outlets (Koonunga Shiraz Caberbet 2008 $19.95 CAD - actually a good variety of South Australian wines for reasonable prices, plus French, Italian, Californian, Argentinian, Chilean and Canadian), a basic supermarket and a place that serves Beaver Tails - yee hah! I had one for desert. Around the area are sitting places around wood fires. This was all around Place St Bernard. The Lift down to the lower part of the village was shut down about 5pm and we missed that. We took a brief tour of the night time tubing. Will have to try that out sometime! We headed down to the lower end of the village. I have to have dinner at the Caribou place. Found the French restaurant that does the raglette. Not too many places left for dinner over next few days so Monday night will have to do. The girls found some cats munching on scraps near another restaurant. White cats, blending well in the snow under the buildings they habitated. Further down the village road we passed a few bars, more restaurants (by the dozen) and came to the Maple Place. there we enjoyed maple taffy. Pour hot maple in a line on snow, wait 45 seconds until tacky and then roll up on a wooden stick. mmmmm.
Heading on back up to the hill is reasonably easy. gentle climb with gravel mixed in with the snow covers most of the icy bits.

23 December 2010

22 Dec 10 Montreal - Parc du Mont Royale

Temp: -1 Degrees C, overcast, light snow

After attacking the buffet for breakfast it was time to venture outside. The day is a sweltering -1 degrees C. the warmest we have had so far in Canada. It is only 1 km up the road to the Parc du Mont Royale. Not a tough ask, however it soon develops into a steep incline for the second half with the final 20 metres or so a 30 metre or more c
limb up steps. from there the path snakes its way around the near side of the mountain with occasional steps providing another alternative between tracks bending back on themselves. Due to the snow many of these were closed. As we ascended the snow fall became heavier, with the views of the city of Montreal, although remaining striking, becoming obscured with the low cload and falling snow. The final ascent is by steep stairs or a 2.5 km incline around the mountain. By the time we reached the top the snow was really falling, and there was no longer any need for jackets or thermals except to keep the snow off. at the chalet at the top we enjoyed a hot chocolate in the ballroom. An ornate wooden structure, marble flooring and stone squirrels guarding the roof trusses. The lookout oversees the city from here and we continued around down the long snaking path. Squirrels and birds congregated around feeders near the track down. At one point a group of children were sliding  down an icy decline amongst stone monoliths in the park. Further on skaters braved the snowfall on the frozen lake and Snow makers adding snow to a downhill track. We continued back downhill dodging skiers, joggers and walkers.

After a break at the hotel we ventured into the Underground City for lunch. This place is huge and boasts a Christmas tree five storeys high. Interestingly you don't often get a Merry Christmas farewell. You are more likely to receive a 'Happy holidays'. Also all signs are in French and rarely if ever dual language. Locals have said there is a movement to make Quebec more French, but a number have also said the language is still vastly different from France. One of the waiters visited Paris recently and struggled with the apparent English influence to the French language. Canadian French seems to have remained more traditional. An unusual observation is that some people switch between the two languages mid discussion. Others switch language keeping that languages accent, while more still who struggle with one or the other maintain their first langauge accent. We made some purchases and returned to the hotel. We decided dinner would be taken nearby restaurant and crossed the road to the first choice without jackets and gloves. We were unable to get a seat here except in the part where those eating had to be over 18. Front bar pub. So we ventured to the Italian restaurant across the road from the Novotel. A fantastic meal and the staff really out did themselves with service. Even offering any meal wished for not on the menu.
After dinner I grabbed the jacket and strolled the streets of Montreal for some action. Kylie wasn't really interested in the numerous peep shows on offer so we contented ourselves with enjoying the city lights and photographing the evening sights of a montreal night. That last bit was almost poetic!

22 December 2010

21 Dec 10 Pointe-a-Calliere musee d'archaeologie

This museum sits on top of the initial colonisation location of Montreal. This is at the confluence of the St Lawrence and St Pierre rivers. People lived in the area at least 6000 years ago. Ville-Marie was established in 1642 with the first French people arriving. After some altercations with the locals a fort was established. The museum covers archaeological remains of pre-colonial and colonial inhabitation. Much of the excavated remains and artefacts are displayed in the basement of the museum. A 20 minute multi-media show provides historical background to Montreal and the archaeological excavations. This is well presented with a 180 degree visual display (audio in 8 selectable languages), incorporating some of the excavated remains in the demonstration. Afterwards you follow through more of the towns foundations with Native Indian artefacts also on display. The excavations show the substantial sewerage system developed (amongst other things of course). This is a source of many of the daily artefacts in use at the time, but also shows the impact of landscape change as the St Pierre river formed part of the sewerage disposal system. The river no longer exists.
Emerging from the crypt d'archaeologie into the museum shop you realise the scale of the excavations as in reality you are now in the original customs house across the road from the museum. Rather than re-tracing the steps underground we braved the cold weather to return to get our coats.

After the museum we strolled about the old port area for a while. Had lunch at Georgio's pizza place . Returned to the hotel early by taxi.
Had dinner in the restaurant downstairs. Escargot with garlic and cheese for entree, followed by a 10oz Angus steak with fromage blu sauce. Very nice.
Heading back down to sample local wines at the bar.
Dallas beat the Canadiens 5-2.

21 Dec 10 Montreal - Basilique Notre-Dame de Montreal

Temp: -8 Degrees, overcast

Awoke this morning to a light snow fall. Not sure why but even sleep in a king sized bed wasn't all that restful. Braved Captain Hook again this morning. With this one an engineering degree helps out. After sliding armature A to the right, raising lever B while rotating the hook anti-clockwise into the coloured zone, water splashes forth from faucet 2. Couldn't find the 50 page instruction manual for explanations but the further into the blue zone one turns the more hot water you get. Similarly with the red zone. The further you venture into that the colder the water gets. Still, all told, the warm restful shower washes away any real trial or confusion with the device.

It was decided a brisk 2.5Km walk down hill to the Pointe-a-calliere musee d'archaeologie et d'histoire de Montreal was in order. It is more tiring just saying that. Along the way we found the Basilique Notre-Dame de Montreal. For $5 CAD you can enter the church with tours on offer throughout the day. This church is nothing short of spectacular. There are little words to describe the woodwork, painted walls and ceilings, the fixtures and finials that abound the inside. The Notre-Dame Basilica was built between 1824 and 1829.


20 Dec 10 Quebec City to Montreal

Temp: Quebec -12 degrees C, clear skies, Montreal -10 degrees C, clear skies 

Checked out of the hotel after breakfast and caught a taxi around 1100 hours. The trip into the train station was short and we were well ahead of time before the train leaves at 1310 hours. A suggestion was made to visit the farmers market, just across from the station (past the carpark), near the wharf. Under cover this market offers a huge variety of goods. The usual foods (bread, vegetables, cheese and condiments of all types), mixed with wines, sauces and ciders, maple syrup, jewellery, furs, perfumes, soaps and knick-knacks. Not cheap cheesy stuff though.
Eventually got onto the train to Montreal enduring the four hour trip. It was a good time to catch up on things, including some sleep. The train ride takes you along the flow of the Saint Laurent, although at some distance inland. Through what one imagines to be fields in spring and summer, open plains and heavy wooded areas. Although bleak the landscape contrasting against the white snow is worth seeing. Occasionally towns and building rise from the thick blanket of snow and ice, reaching to hold aloft the powdery snow draped over the rooves and eaves.
We arrived in Montreal as the sun was setting and took a taxi to the nearby Novotel Hotel. Although a short distance the luggage is beginning to get heavy.

Over evening we took in a stroll through downtown Montreal. The city trees, parks and building are encapsulated with festive lights. There is a fractured collusion of new and old buildings throughout. And the Underground City is a sight to experience. Began in the mid 1960's the Underground City, or Reso, boasts 33km of linked walkways, shops and stores. Started at Place Ville Marie where they raised the church on piles the shopping precinct now spans 7 city blocks. All underground.


Dinner was at St Huberts. A nice Steak and Chicken grill restaurant.

19 Dec 10 Old Quebec City

Temp: -12 Degrees, clear skies

Time for another stroll around the walled city of Quebec, this time by day. We returned to the frolicking grounds of the squirrel before venturing under the immense walls of La Citadelle. I took some time out for a slide down some steps. Great fun even if unintentional. Entrance to the walled fort is through a winding passage. Great open corridors contained by the huge walls lead you, eventually into the heart of the fort. It is easy to see how difficult the fort would have been to have been breached. The tour of the fort wasn't until later in the afternoon so we found our way out, eventually, and entered the Old city. This time we went inside the Chateaux Frontegnac. Reputedly the most photographed hotel in the world. I could see why. It is an immense stone structure with the classic green copper roof. The masonry is magnificent. Inside the hotel the eyes are assailed by beautiful wood work, wood and glass framed stores on marble and stone tiled flooring. The gold, green and red decorations of the season added to the décor. A restaurant overlooks the city walls and the Saint Laurent river. Prices here seemed quite reasonable with the most expensive meal around the $23 CAD. I may have only been looking at the entree, however.
From here we decided to take the ferry across the river. The view from here at the city, and also the island was incredible. The sound of the ferry cracking and smashing through the ice was an unforgettable experience. With the cold breeze stinging the skin you have to wander at the sight of rowers canoeing through the water at this time of year. Occasionally they would step out onto the ice sheets to push along with one leg.

On returning to Old Quebec we visited the Rue Champlain. Stores lie the street offering all sorts of wares. Popped into le Fudgerie, a store offering chocolate, fudge and nougat treats. Outside, and up one of the cobbled roads we met the sound of drums in rhythmic percussion. Two people on stilts lead by a third came down one of the steeper declines. An incredible feat considering people with shoes and boots were sliding down this road, surfer style. Some unintentionally I might add. We decided to take the glass elevator ride up. For $2 CAD per person this trip offers another view of the shopping precinct below, the river and island.

Later that evening we returned to the city to eat dinner at the Ancien Canada house. This home was built in 1675 and now serves as a restaurant serving fine Canadian cuisine. Hailey and I braved the Bison burgers while Sara had the 'Quebec' pie (pork) and Kylie a seafood plate. The Bison has a strong gamey flavour, but not unpleasant, and easily washed down with a Quebec sauvignon Blanc.
After dinner we continued our walk around city, drawing in the sights now becoming familiar, but still ever entertaining.

18 Dec 10 Quebec City – Ile d'Orleans, Expeditions Mi-Loup

Temp: -15 degrees C, clear skies.

Morning was met by a light sprinkle of snow. We started with a big breakfast before being picked up in a shuttle bus from outside the hotel at 1000 hrs. The driver, Antoine, drove us through Old Quebec and stopped briefly at the Chateau Frontenac to pick up two more passengers. This is an old building reputed to be the most photographed hotel in the world. An American family joined us in the shuttle (a Dodge Caravan). At least he did, his wife, two daughters and their friends hopped into another shuttle. So much for the two extras. Once on our way we crossed the river to the island. After a few minutes we turned into the property. The drive way was initially steep and the driver had to do a U-turn in order to get up the slope. Even though heavily sanded the drive wheel of the vehicle had to be on the right track in order to prevent slippage. We soon arrived at the small wooden cottage ready to enjoy some Dog sledding, ice fishing, snow shoeing and Snow-mobiling (locally called Ski-dooing). Actually the choice was either ice fishing or snow shoeing and we decided on the ice fishing for today.
After being fitted out with cold weather gear we set off. With two to a sled one person sits infront while the second steers and brakes. The brake is simply a metal bar that runs between the two runners and when depressed digs spikes into the snow. A more permanent brake is a grapple attached to a line that is thrown out when needed. With the standard brake weight needs to be maintained on the rail otherwise the dogs can take off when they feel like it. Steering of the sled is by positioning weight on one runner or the other. Sometimes your entire weight needs to go onto one runner for sharp corners, or if trying to maintain the runners on hard snow or ice where speed can be maintained. Occasionally you need to kick off the back to assist the dogs getting through the soft stuff. This is to be avoided as much as possible as the dogs can get lazy. The American behind me had quick dogs and on a few occasions I ended up with his lead dog between my legs. He journey took us through the Canadian woods. Tall pines with snow draped over the branches, trunks and foliage (on the trees that had foliage) lined the route. The dense trees and thick snow provided sensational scenery. Occasionally we would break out of the woods onto gently rolling white plains. At other times riding undulating ground broken by snow and ice covered brooks. Probably the only unpleasant part of the experience is the dogs in front colouring the snow yellow, or leaving smelly parcels on the track. Thankfully I was the second sled and the dogs were adept in dodging the minefields. Often the dogs would stop and fight. As they are all bitches the fights can be nasty, but there were few occasions and keeping the dogs moving ensured they did what they were supposed to do. There are six dogs in each train, with each in particular pecking order. Part way through the trip, which lasted a good hour, Hailey and I swapped places. Apart from enjoying the scenery and blocking the nose from the occasional waft of dog the riders job is to hold onto the anchor and assist in steering by shifting weight. This really was an amazing experience and we hope to do it again. Unfortunately there was no opportunity to take photographs or video as there was plenty of things happening, but next time...

One the way back to the chalet we stopped to pet some of the dogs. One of the guides intriduced us to three puppies only 3 weeks old. Eyes not yet quite open. Now it was time for a hot chocolate in the chalet. Here on display are a number of Indian artefacts made by one of the guides. The necklaces from various animal parts such as Bear claw, antler spikes, bone and horn were for sale from around $15 TO $30 CAD. On the bottom shelf were a number of items made with beaver fur such as, mittens and boots. There was also a headress made from white goose feathers and a Racoon pelt.

Seven snow mobiles lined up outside the shed. After a brief introduction to the machine, first in French then in English the guide sat behind us while we gave the machine a little spin. The girls had a go as well. We then lined up and Ski-dooed off behind the guide. Ski-dooing is the local term for snow mobiling. Sara and I were behind the guide and after a few moments gained the experience and confidence to keep up with him. The controls are easy. Right hand has a lever style throttle, and the left a bike style brake. The machine doesn't take off until 4000 RPM. Steering is easy and by shifting body weight to the side corners are taken at higher speed. Once in softer snow, or if you start to sink powering up gets you out if it. The trail wound its way through the same forest as the dog sledding, although on different tracks. At times the trail was only as wide as the snow mobile with the occasional branch or tree giving a nice slap on the helmet. The scenery was sensational. Although a drab, colourless environment the stark contrast of tree and foliage against blistering white snow was beautiful and peaceful. The trail took us alongside, over and through some brooks. Crashing through the ice and water over undulating paths. Occasionally we would break out onto flat white plains where we could open up the throttle. We were given the opportunity to let the beasts rip, but the speedometer wasn't working so all I know is the machine maxed out at 9000 RPM. It was an awesome experience flying across the unbroken tundra, bouncing at the undulations, following and creating billowing clouds of fog and snow from the other ski-dooers. Sara hung on tight. We continued through the forest stopping for a break amongst the trees. At one point a deer leapt across the path, following in parallel some distance in the woods before disappearing. We paused for a tractor clearing a path and turned a sharp right. Then I started having trouble with the engine flooding. Not a problem when allowed to maintain speed, but slowing on corners and frequent stops to allow others to catch up caused a few problems. At one point while keeping the revs up around a corner we hit the soft snow on the edge of the path and tipped over. Sara was pinned briefly but we both got back on and caught up with the guide in no time at all. The return trek was great with plenty of confident to hit the undulations at speed back to the chalet.

Whole waiting for the shuttle to return from its delivery there was time to do some Ice fishing. With 300 specimens in the frozen lake the optimism was high, ignoring the previous groups lack of success. 10 inches of ice, or 250mm in the new world separated us from the cold water, which funnily enough has to be warmer than the ice or it would be solid right? Anyway the guide demonstrated drilling a hole with and auger, then it was my turn. Obviously the holes pre-made were not in the right place otherwise the other group would have caught something. After clearing the broken ice with a scoop I dipped the line and bait into the dark depths. The bait and hook dropped to the bottom. Some minutes passed, with me alternating between jiggling the bait and hoping a fish would stumble onto the motionless morsel waiting to tempt the appetite. We didn't quite get to the hours later. The family had other things to do so we packed up catchless. You should have seen the one that got away! Big as a Polar Bear he was!
Back in the chalet we changed and got warm. Here the guide told us about his culture, and the items he made, amongst other stories.

Returning to the hotel we decided to walk into Old Quebec for dinner at La Conti. Antoine recommended this, and the Continental attached was also highly recommended.
To walk off the magnificent Italian faire we took in the sights and lights of the city. Amber lights reflecting off the snow blending with green, red and blue of store lights, signs and Christmas decoration. For $80 CAD we could get a horse ride and tour of the city, but with only $55 cash on us one driver said he would take us about for a shorter ride for $40 plus $15 tip. So we had to take a seat, throw on the rugs, comprehend the English with French accent under the steam of Puss the horse.

The energy for the trek home was fuelled by a chocolate fondue near the Chateaux Frontegnac. The menu included some cheesy sensations including the classical fondue and an ever anticipated raclette, but ill have to wait another day for that one.

21 December 2010

17 Dec 10 Quebec City

Temp: -15 degrees Celsius clear skies.
Bonjour mes ami

Quebec city at last. The hotel is positioned just outside Old Quebec. Perhaps a 500 metre walk. We arose late and just made the breakfast time of 1100 hrs. Fumbled our way through some more French, but something must have clicked because we received the breakfast we ordered. Afterwards we ventured outside rugged up to face the icy onslaught. It really isn't that cold, and once you get moving the heat generated keeps you going. Ok I lied a little. It is a bit icy on the exposed skin, such as on the face, the nose becoming particularly runny. Decided on a quick stroll to get a bit of an idea of the area. Once we worked out how the walk signals operated we were on our way. We walked past the Hotel du Parliament (Canadian Parliament) building that sits just outside the walled city of Old Quebec and continued into the Parc des champs-de-bataille. The first floor of this building displays British influence in the architecture, the third floor distinctly French. The middle floor a combination of British and French and thus uniquely Canadian. The Parc des champs-de-bataille is reputed to be the second largest city park in the world, second only to New York's central park. It is the site of an English and French battle that lasted 20 minutes, where both generals died. A number of locals frequent the park, including joggers and those carrying cross country skis. We continued on through the park beside the walls of la Citadelle - an old fort that still houses the Canadian 22nd regiment. A cannon went off startling a number of the park visitors. Here was the first real view of the river that flows past Quebec city continuing eventually to cascade down Niagra falls. Not fully frozen over, the ice forms islands and blocks of crushed sheet. Amongst the trees here squirrels frolic. Running down one tree, they bound across the snow stopping occasionally to dig in search for peanuts (I suspect planted there), then scoot to the next tree. Every now and again two squirrels chase each other spiralling up the trunk of a tree moving to the higher branches.

We returned back to the hotel. The girls were getting cold as their clothing really isn't suited for this climate. Kylie also needed to finish off replacing lost luggage items. Unfortunately this was/is to be a huge expense we didn't really need. Conflicting information from the insurance company on our claim isnt helping much. No word from V Australia yet either. Five people lost items that flight.
A taxi took us to the Place Laurier – a shopping centre very much like we find in Australia. Three floors of shopperholic delight. It was immediately apparent some grasp of French is actually required. Most of the store owners do speak English, or at least understand some of it. Surprisingly few are actually fluent in English. I managed to pick up a new 50mm lens for the camera, and replaced a lens hood I lostsomewhere in Beverly Hills. Ben Stiller may be the new owner. I picked up some decent snow boots for $110 CAD and some snow pants for a similar price. Kylie and the girls were finally fully fitted out with some clothing.
After a few hours shopping it was time to return to the hotel for some dinner. It gets dark around 1600 hrs and the traffic had really picked up. After about 20 minutes standing in the cold it was obvious a taxi wasn't going to turn up to the taxi rank area. It wasn't well sign posted and we wondered if the driver who dropped us there gave us a bum steer (or is that a bum caribou up here?). We went back into the mall and found a taxi phone. 25-30 minutes wait at least. Finally a taxi turned up to return us to the Delta. Dinner at the hotel was fantastic. I started with Escargot in a mushroom sauce, followed by pork medallions.
The girls tried the snails, but I doubt they will order them themselves at any time soon. Would love an early night but it seems 11pm is the closing hour. An Ontario white wine wasn't too bad. More a chardonnay style. Interestingly on the wine lists they don't mention the grape varieties all that often. Most of the Australian wines listed are South Australian and at a price you have to baulk at. $50 CAD for a 2008 Koonunga Hill Shiraz/Cabernet? 

The hotel room at the Delta is nice. Two double beds are a bit cramped, but there is plenty of space in the room. Captain Hook's tap handle is here as well, but at least this one indicates where the hot water starts.

Bonsoir 

16 Dec 10 LAX-Chicago – Quebec

Temp LA: 16 degrees and overcast, Chicago -5 degrees and light snow, Quebec -15 degrees and clear.

Took off from hotel about 0730 hrs. Easy run into LA airport and the driver took us a round-a-bout route. The highway was heavy traffic, which we saw as we passed over it. We did get a trip through the California oil fields which reminded me that we didn't get to the Tar pits where there is the fossilised example of a Sabre Tooth tiger with its mouth closed. Maybe next time.

Check-in at LAX with United Airlines is interesting. (Note: United Airlines had amalgamated with Continental so will in future be known as United Continental).  One of those automated machines. If they work they are confusing. Its not a smart system unless you only have carry on. Thankfully there were staff on hand to accept the check-in luggage and assist with the crap system. We were early in check-in and we were still fully separated in our seating as the system would not allow us to do a multi-check-in. The staff really weren't that helpful here either. Security took some time to get through, but ultimately it was painless. It was surprising to see the number of small dogs travelling on board the aircraft.

The flight to Chicago was on a Boeing 757 and took around 4 hours. Service on the aircraft was buy your own and quite expensive. A lot of passengers packed their own picnic baskets. There were complimentary drinks of coffee, water, orange juice and soft drink. Once into Chicago airport there were no directions to the next flight. We did have some time and eventually found someone to assist us. A long walk on the concourse to the transfer bus. From there we were escorted to the tarmac and to the transfer bus. Off to concourse F (terminal 3) and by what appeared to be the tradesmans entrance into the F2 gate area. It was about 1730 hrs and we hadn't eaten all day, so McDonalds, which just happened to be nearby, filled the holes. At 1821 hrs we boarded the Skywest operated United Airlines CRJ200. A neat express jet. Carry-on room was limited so I found a seat at the back with room to store the bags under the seat. De-icing the wings with a robot arm system delayed our take off for a while, and then further traffic taking off slowed the process further. We eventually followed a 747 off the runway with the ascent surprisingly smooth being so close to the previous take-off. This flight was only 1 hour and 52 minutes. The only disappointment was the green de-icing goop clouding the windows preventing any view of the lights on take-off. On landing in Quebec enough of the goop had washed off to give a glimpse of the lights of Canada. The orange streetlight glow particularly iridescent against the white snow on the roads and houses.
There was a delay on tarmac while we waited for a tow onto the bay. The aircraft had lost nose wheel steering on landing.
Canadian customs was painless and provided a good opportunity to practice some French. The staff are probably still laughing. Anyway all our baggage made it with us this time (obviously apart from the earlier loss, which we still haven't heard about). It is a flat fare of $32 CAD to the city central from the airport. We arrived at the Hotel Delta at about 2200 hrs. The last the check-in. They upgraded us to a Premier room which has a great view over Quebec city towards the Saint Laurent river and St Mathews church with an 1800's cemetery just below.

15 Dec 10 Santa Monica

After Getty Villa we caught the 534 along Pacific Coast Highway (PCH to the locals) to Santa Monica. Someone in a BMW offered us a ride. It appears white people do not travel by bus in Malibu. It was a pity it was overcast s the beach didn't look particularly inviting. Anyway, after a 15 to 20 minute trip we passed through the Palisades into Santa Monica. A pod of dolphins swam beside us for a portion of the trip. Getting off the bus at the jetty we crossed over the highway on a bridge before descending down onto the famous pier. There weren't too many people about but the stalls and buildings were open. We didn't go all the way to the end as Kylie needed to get some shopping done and we needed to find the mall the bus driver suggested. This wasn't too difficult, however the malls in the US are more a collection of department stores than the speciality or even general shops found in Australia. We decided to explore the surrounding shops for the winter clothes and basics that did not make it with us to LA. Still no word on the lost luggage.
Sara and I strolled 7 blocks of undulating geography to find a store that sold Nikon lenses. Finally found the store, but they only did Canon cameras. The guy suggested a professional camera outlet, but that was 10 US miles away.
Met back up with family and decided to head back home after 4 hours of shopping. Did manage to find some decent power socket adapters. Had dinner at McDonald's. It seems they do not 'super size' anymore, however we ordered a small which came back as an Australian large. In addition the drinks are bottomless cups.
On returning home Kylie thought she would ask a Taxi driver how much to take us to Sunset Blvd where we catch the 302 back to Hollywood, and how much back to Hollywood. Big mistake, although discounted by the time we added taxes and tips it was far greater than we wanted to spend at $45 USD. We were practically chased down the street by a couple of drivers offering various discounts which forced us to walk a loop and go well away from the bus stop we needed. Not an issue as we found the bus we wanted and the driver kindly stopped for us. I must say the American bus drivers are by far the most helpful and friendly I have ever met anywhere.
We got the bus to the corner of Sunset blvd and PCH where we met the 302 to return us to Hollywood. The trip of 1 hour was relaxing as the route takes us through Beverley hills where the christmas lights on the houses were fully illuminated. The Americans seem to be very much understated in house lights in LA. The majority are simply white, however on occasion mix it with the second most popular colour – red. Rarely were there multicoloured lights. All in all though the lights are well positioned highlighting tree trunks and branches, outlining the foliage on evergreens, snaking through hedges and shrubs, and flowing over rooves, eaves and fences. Some lights flicker, but few shine in patterns. Walked home from bus drop off at the corner of Sunset blvd and Nth Highland.

A bit about the hotel room at Hollywood Heights Hotel. Not bad, but not spacious. Just enough room for the two double beds, TV and a desk. The noise from the main road outside isn't too bad. The lights flicker periodically and the desk lamp is particularly annoying. The bathroom is simple but functional. The shower/bath tap is interesting. Imaging Captain Hook's... err... hook. You need to turn this anti-clockwise for water. Not altogether interesting, however this needs to be turned a good 110 degrees to get warm water. There is no flow adjustment. It is either off or on.

The restaurant downstairs is great. The food was magnificent. Typically American style foods.

18 December 2010

15 Dec 10 Los Angeles – Getty Villa

Temp: 16 Degrees C, Overcast occasional drizzle/light rain
Caught the 302 on Santa Monica Blvd to the Pacific Coast Highway. Trip took about 1 hour and we caught the 534 on PCH to the Getty Villa only a few more minutes. A shuttle bus takes you up the steep driveway to the villa. From there you head left through the arches to the information desk with the option of taking stairs or a lift to the second level.

Before continuing with the Getty Villa experience below is some history of the Villa Sububana dei papyrii and the Getty museum.

The Villa Suburbana dei papiri was discovered by accident in 1750. It was given the name Villa of the Papyri due to the immense collection of scrolls found. 18th C tunnellers drew up partial plans (plan drawn by Swiss Karl Weber) of the villa as they dug through 60-80 metres depth of pyroplasmic matter resulting from the AD79 volcanic eruption of Vesuvius. Note this is different material to that covering Pompeii. The diggers were in search of curios and statues for museums and collections. A common focus of early archaeology. To date only a small portion of the villa has been uncovered. Excavation in Herculaneum (Ercolano) is limited to protect the undiscovered treasures that remain. In light of the recent and continuous collapse of buildings at Pompeii this is a necessary measure.
The Getty villa is a museum built utilising many of the architectural features of the Villa of the papyri. Not a precise replica, however suitably similar enough to provide an incredible appreciation of ancient Roman lifestyle.

The Villa exceeded my expectations. While understanding the villa is a mock-up of a partially excavated example, using some modern construction it is still an extraordinary example of museology and public archaeology.

14 Dec 10 Los Angeles - Universal Studios, Universal City

Temp: 18 Degrees C, Overcast clearing to afternoon

Today started early with a big American breakfast. I went for the 'Hollywood special' - scrambled eggs, bacon, breakfast potatoes and pancakes. Freshly squeezed Orange Juice was complimentary and could not say a nasty word. After breakfast we raced off to catch the train to Universal Studios. We caught this at the corner of Hollywood Blvd and North highland Ave. Descending two levels to the ticket machines by escalator or lift if needed. Tickets were $1.50 USD one way or $6.00 USD for a multitrip that lasts all day. We decided on the single as we were unsure what the full day plans were, and the hotel restaurant waiter suggested there was plenty to do at Universal City once the studios were closed. We caught the train a further level down and headed towards North Hollywood. We only needed to go a single stop to Universal City station. Signage to the Universal Studios shuttle bus was non-existent, however a council employee directed us to the shuttle bus stop. Crossing the roads at pedestrian crossings here is interesting. A recognisable amber palm indicates no walking while a white figure striking a walking pose indicates you are able to cross. Nothing particularly concerning, however when the signal turns back to amber it also gives a countdown in seconds presumably to indicate how long you have left to cross. Novel idea, and we made the mistake of tempting fate to cross. Not actually an issue since there was about 20-25 seconds to cross the four lane road. However, I did not take into account my back pack opening partway across spilling my camera, 200mm zoom lens and video camera to the bitumen. Another pedestrian following at a great rate of knots managed to snaffle the video camera before it rolled under a car, and I picked up the remaining items. All I can say is thank God its a Nikon. No damage to any of the devices and they still function well. It seems each day is set for some form of a disaster, although as Kylie put it 'It is all part of the adventure'.

We arrived at Universal Studios – a short trip by shuttle bus up a steep incline, to be dropped off outside Universal City. The group, in typical sheepish style, followed the lights and sounds to a shopping mall. This area circles the outskirts of a portion of the Studios, sporting numerous shops, restaurants stalls and the car parks for the Studio. It wasn't long before we realised we were headed in the wrong direction and retraced our steps to Universal Studio's front gate. This is marked by a large rotation globe, Emblazoned with 'Universal Studios', smoke poring from the base for added dramatic effect. We approached the turnstiles with the rest of the growing minions. Thankfully we purchased 'Front of Line' passes and as we found these were a worthy investment. Not only no queues but waiting was non-existent meaning getting to the 'behind the scenes' shows running in close succession was easy. You also get reserved seating in prime viewing locations. The only behind the scenes show we missed were the animal actors.

First show up was Shrek 4D. This is precisely the same as at Movie World on the Gold Coast so no surprises there. Next we took on the Studio tour. This was vastly different to the tour taken in 1978, with three notable features back then changed slightly for the modern audience. The first was the Jaws scene where earlier a fisherman in a boat is taken by the shark. In the modern version a diver disappears in a bubbling pool of red, and secondly setting off the pyrotechnics on the wharf doesn't prevent jaws from taking off with the pier. In keeping with the classics you still get sprayed as Jaws leaps from the water towards the tour bus. The second change is the Grinch (played by an actor rather than animatronics) warning of the tunnel and the falling rocks. Slight changes to the set lead the passengers into the tunnel before the avalanche occurs. In 1978 it was an ice fall. The parting of the waters in 1978 followed a biblical theme, where the new version incorporated a vehicle under water. The pond here used for notable films including King Kong, Mc Hales Navy and any film with vast water required. Some of the old classics remained including the western sets, Psycho set (where Norman Bates, wielding a knife, chases the bus ) amongst others. Newer additions include King Kong in 3D which was amazing, and the recently re-built European set (burnt down two years ago), and the Desperate Housewife's Wisteria avenue. The tour took us through the studio lots where at studio 27 they were making the latest Muppet movie.

The Waterworld stunt show was sensational with some incredible props used. Of note is the massive mock-up aircraft that launches into the air to drop in the water just before where we were seated.

The Terminator 2D show incorporates both 3D cinematic effects as well as live action. Very well done. The Special effects show really gave a good understanding of how technology has impacted special effects in movies.
The animal show was interesting with one highlight how they train birds to fly in front of a fan to get better flying shots.

Notes on my own observations in LA:
Population is around 4 million. i didn;t count them, just took that off a city population sign. The city definately has a bit of a haze around it due to the smog. The climate is similar to Adelaide, warm and dry. The people are very friendly. There appears to be a significant South American influence and Spanish is practically the primary language. Especially with the locals on the street. The suburbs and towns are clean with pavement sweepers employed to do this.

There is a sad component to the streets with a huge number of homeless and beggers practically on every street corner. This is not an affliction to any age group with couples in their early 20's pushing shopping trolleys to the next bin for a rumage. Women in the early to late 30's stand outside the seven-eleven asking for spare change, and groups of men of all ages wrap themselves in blankets or coats to shield against the colder night air.

One surprise were the shopping centres and stores. Vast buildings of all sorts of product for sale. Every item imaginable. Interestingly devoid of customers. Possibly not a shopping day though. prices are very good compared to Australia.    Sports shoes around a third of the price.

15 December 2010

Day 1 ADL-SYD-LAX 13 Dec 10

Arrived at airport well ahead of time. Queues non existent and check-in a breeze. Spent a few moments in the lounge where I was introduced to the 'special hot chocolate' . Worth the effort.
Well I must say V Australia Premium Economy is very sexy. The blending of light grey and dark purple tones of the modern décor caress the senses. Soft mood lighting blends with the dulcet tones from on-board entertainment. The tight leather seats hug the figure, feeling sensuous against the body with the soft rhythmic drum of the GE engines, gently massaging the senses. The noise can be eliminated by the noise cancelling headsets although the pulsating vibrations knead the muscular knots into supple playdough. Al can elaborate on the technical specifics. Of the engines that is. The headsets dont fully eliminate the cries of two young babies. Supplied with blanket and pillow are a set of eye covers. Sorry Andy, no complimentary gimp masks here. Nor ponchos I might add,Kerry. As I sip on one of the many offerings from the bar I wonder what the poor people are doing. Actually I know exactly what they are doing. Squished in the cattle class corral breathing in the recycled fumes expired by the business class toffs up forward. The babies have re-started. Filling the air with the choral chimes of a strangled cat. What did I have for lunch? Ginger and Coriander chicken salad. A couple of glasses of Margaret river sauvignon blanc. Bread roll followed by roast chicken with mushroom sauce mixed vegetables and roasted chat potatoes. Desert was banana cake and strawberries. The cognac finished it off well. Still waiting on the final cup of tea but turbulence is preventing delivery. Let alone expulsion of a days fluid intake. Well, time to lie back and enjoy the ride, skimming across the pacific at 10,056 metres. Last time I skimmed across the pacific it was at an uncomfortable 70 metres with ships interrupting otherwise peaceful rest. But that is another story. Inception shall entertain me for the moment.
Airspeed 918Kph, outside air temp -38deg C ETA 0730 5hrs diff.
Written 2770km from syd 9303km to lax.
Never did get the cup of tea.
Four movies later, countless CDs and even relaxation programs fail to induce any real sleep. Also very very warm. Took a walk down to the back of the aircraft to cool off.
Breakfast was served around 1am ADL time. Scrambled eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes and a hash brown. A couple of glasses of orange juice and I finally got a cup of tea.
Arrived in LA around 0745 local time. Temp: 27 degrees C, clear skies with a smoggy tinge.
Slight difficulty at immigration where the girls passports didn't match the visa documents. Re-did some paperwork and continued through to the carousel.
Luck continued as we found we were one bag short. A few bags had gone walkabout from that flight.
After completing more documentation at the service counter we continued on our way to the Hollywood Heights Hotel. Taxi ride came to about $51 USD. Checked into the hotel and freshened up.
Took a stroll down to Hollywood Blvd. At Grauman's Chinese theatre a muppet movie was being made. We were unable to take photographs of the 'set' and am still not entirely sure how that was defined. It was interesting to note the orderly movements of the tourists over the random directions displayed by the 'tourist' actors. After being told numerous times to 'move along' (just waiting for a 'nothing to see here') we moved behind Madame Tussaud's and followed the 'stars' in the pavement along the road. Every few feet we were accosted by tours to see the stars houses of Beverly Hills. We eventually decided on one tour provider after knocking them down to less than half price. This was cheaper than the hotel concierge offered. We had lunch at a flat bread/pizza place. As we headed down to catch our tour we noticed a gathering outside Madame Tussaud's wax museum. Gwyneth Paltrow was receiving her celebrity star. Managed to get a few photos, however the professional signature collectors prevented the girls get and autograph. A number of other stars were sighted at the time. The teacher from Glee and someone else.
On the tour we visited a number of places including; heaps of celebrities a good vantage point for the Hollywood sign, eateries of the rich and shameless (the scene of Britany Spears infamous underwear episode), Rodeo drive amongst other local sights. It was interesting to note the difficulty in selling the property Michael Jackson died in. Because of the memorials constantly being placed around the property it is difficult to dispose of. This is a place commanding $100,000 USD per month rent.

After the tour we strolled the streets of LA. Found the place Charlie Chaplin worked from with his signature and foot prints still visible in the cement form 1918. We also bumped into the LA ink Tattoo parlour or is that parlor over here? Picked up some Skechers for $45 USD and I think ill get another pair in New York on the way home. Returning to the hotel we had dinner down stairs. Not a bad dinner and I enjoyed a nice glass of Californian red.

No word on Kylies bag. Need to get some socket converters so we can charge up the GPS, phones and cameras. Blogging will be sparse until we get some more socket adapters. The only one found so far is crap.

04 December 2010

Not long to go now

Al is a little concerned our world tour is off to a quiet start. If he stopped talking on the phone about the little engines that should and popped his head over the cubical wall he may notice I am still inconveniently strapped to the desk. Hopefully in the next week or so I can decipher which way the access card is supposed to be oriented so I can escape this cube farm and head for the whitened pastures of the northern hemisphere winter.
Once all the affairs of state are finalised we will require some time for acclimatisation. Going from the 30 to 40 degree Celsius temperatures to climate struggling to break through the minus maximums will be interesting. Thankfully the South Australian summer has begun in reasonably comfortable fashion so the shock should be minimal. I think maybe the Australian cricket team have their mind on our journey as well, and they can't blame the weather.

23 October 2010

Welcome

Welcome to our travel blog. As we experience the sites and culture of this vast planet of ours we will keep you updated with photos and stories. Hope you enjoy!