Morning was met by a light sprinkle of snow. We started with a big breakfast before being picked up in a shuttle bus from outside the hotel at 1000 hrs. The driver, Antoine, drove us through Old Quebec and stopped briefly at the Chateau Frontenac to pick up two more passengers. This is an old building reputed to be the most photographed hotel in the world. An American family joined us in the shuttle (a Dodge Caravan). At least he did, his wife, two daughters and their friends hopped into another shuttle. So much for the two extras. Once on our way we crossed the river to the island. After a few minutes we turned into the property. The drive way was initially steep and the driver had to do a U-turn in order to get up the slope. Even though heavily sanded the drive wheel of the vehicle had to be on the right track in order to prevent slippage. We soon arrived at the small wooden cottage ready to enjoy some Dog sledding, ice fishing, snow shoeing and Snow-mobiling (locally called Ski-dooing). Actually the choice was either ice fishing or snow shoeing and we decided on the ice fishing for today.
After being fitted out with cold weather gear we set off. With two to a sled one person sits infront while the second steers and brakes. The brake is simply a metal bar that runs between the two runners and when depressed digs spikes into the snow. A more permanent brake is a grapple attached to a line that is thrown out when needed. With the standard brake weight needs to be maintained on the rail otherwise the dogs can take off when they feel like it. Steering of the sled is by positioning weight on one runner or the other. Sometimes your entire weight needs to go onto one runner for sharp corners, or if trying to maintain the runners on hard snow or ice where speed can be maintained. Occasionally you need to kick off the back to assist the dogs getting through the soft stuff. This is to be avoided as much as possible as the dogs can get lazy. The American behind me had quick dogs and on a few occasions I ended up with his lead dog between my legs. He journey took us through the Canadian woods. Tall pines with snow draped over the branches, trunks and foliage (on the trees that had foliage) lined the route. The dense trees and thick snow provided sensational scenery. Occasionally we would break out of the woods onto gently rolling white plains. At other times riding undulating ground broken by snow and ice covered brooks. Probably the only unpleasant part of the experience is the dogs in front colouring the snow yellow, or leaving smelly parcels on the track. Thankfully I was the second sled and the dogs were adept in dodging the minefields. Often the dogs would stop and fight. As they are all bitches the fights can be nasty, but there were few occasions and keeping the dogs moving ensured they did what they were supposed to do. There are six dogs in each train, with each in particular pecking order. Part way through the trip, which lasted a good hour, Hailey and I swapped places. Apart from enjoying the scenery and blocking the nose from the occasional waft of dog the riders job is to hold onto the anchor and assist in steering by shifting weight. This really was an amazing experience and we hope to do it again. Unfortunately there was no opportunity to take photographs or video as there was plenty of things happening, but next time...
One the way back to the chalet we stopped to pet some of the dogs. One of the guides intriduced us to three puppies only 3 weeks old. Eyes not yet quite open. Now it was time for a hot chocolate in the chalet. Here on display are a number of Indian artefacts made by one of the guides. The necklaces from various animal parts such as Bear claw, antler spikes, bone and horn were for sale from around $15 TO $30 CAD. On the bottom shelf were a number of items made with beaver fur such as, mittens and boots. There was also a headress made from white goose feathers and a Racoon pelt.
Seven snow mobiles lined up outside the shed. After a brief introduction to the machine, first in French then in English the guide sat behind us while we gave the machine a little spin. The girls had a go as well. We then lined up and Ski-dooed off behind the guide. Ski-dooing is the local term for snow mobiling. Sara and I were behind the guide and after a few moments gained the experience and confidence to keep up with him. The controls are easy. Right hand has a lever style throttle, and the left a bike style brake. The machine doesn't take off until 4000 RPM. Steering is easy and by shifting body weight to the side corners are taken at higher speed. Once in softer snow, or if you start to sink powering up gets you out if it. The trail wound its way through the same forest as the dog sledding, although on different tracks. At times the trail was only as wide as the snow mobile with the occasional branch or tree giving a nice slap on the helmet. The scenery was sensational. Although a drab, colourless environment the stark contrast of tree and foliage against blistering white snow was beautiful and peaceful. The trail took us alongside, over and through some brooks. Crashing through the ice and water over undulating paths. Occasionally we would break out onto flat white plains where we could open up the throttle. We were given the opportunity to let the beasts rip, but the speedometer wasn't working so all I know is the machine maxed out at 9000 RPM. It was an awesome experience flying across the unbroken tundra, bouncing at the undulations, following and creating billowing clouds of fog and snow from the other ski-dooers. Sara hung on tight. We continued through the forest stopping for a break amongst the trees. At one point a deer leapt across the path, following in parallel some distance in the woods before disappearing. We paused for a tractor clearing a path and turned a sharp right. Then I started having trouble with the engine flooding. Not a problem when allowed to maintain speed, but slowing on corners and frequent stops to allow others to catch up caused a few problems. At one point while keeping the revs up around a corner we hit the soft snow on the edge of the path and tipped over. Sara was pinned briefly but we both got back on and caught up with the guide in no time at all. The return trek was great with plenty of confident to hit the undulations at speed back to the chalet.
Whole waiting for the shuttle to return from its delivery there was time to do some Ice fishing. With 300 specimens in the frozen lake the optimism was high, ignoring the previous groups lack of success. 10 inches of ice, or 250mm in the new world separated us from the cold water, which funnily enough has to be warmer than the ice or it would be solid right? Anyway the guide demonstrated drilling a hole with and auger, then it was my turn. Obviously the holes pre-made were not in the right place otherwise the other group would have caught something. After clearing the broken ice with a scoop I dipped the line and bait into the dark depths. The bait and hook dropped to the bottom. Some minutes passed, with me alternating between jiggling the bait and hoping a fish would stumble onto the motionless morsel waiting to tempt the appetite. We didn't quite get to the hours later. The family had other things to do so we packed up catchless. You should have seen the one that got away! Big as a Polar Bear he was!
Back in the chalet we changed and got warm. Here the guide told us about his culture, and the items he made, amongst other stories.
Returning to the hotel we decided to walk into Old Quebec for dinner at La Conti. Antoine recommended this, and the Continental attached was also highly recommended.
To walk off the magnificent Italian faire we took in the sights and lights of the city. Amber lights reflecting off the snow blending with green, red and blue of store lights, signs and Christmas decoration. For $80 CAD we could get a horse ride and tour of the city, but with only $55 cash on us one driver said he would take us about for a shorter ride for $40 plus $15 tip. So we had to take a seat, throw on the rugs, comprehend the English with French accent under the steam of Puss the horse.
The energy for the trek home was fuelled by a chocolate fondue near the Chateaux Frontegnac. The menu included some cheesy sensations including the classical fondue and an ever anticipated raclette, but ill have to wait another day for that one.
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